Royal Port Alfred Golf Club is as charming and old-fashioned as you will find in South Africa, very much a product of the early years of the century. However, it's too special to change, and should be always preserved exactly as it is. Many of the holes are quirky, but that simply adds to the intrigue, forcing you to play unconventional shots, and there's fun to be had here.

It is built on rolling hills and sand dunes with views over the Indian Ocean, and each hole is individually named, sometimes quite aptly in the case of Whale's back, the Punch Bowl and Hippo's bath. The clubhouse has a grand view out over the course and the sea, and there's an equally good vista from the high top tee on Greenmantle, the 12th.